Get to know Mencía
One of life’s simple pleasures is discovering a complex wine. And when that wine is both food- and wallet-friendly, that discovery can be hard to beat.
A street sign in Bierzo
Mencía (pronounced ‘men-thee-ah’) is a red Spanish grape grown primarily in the north-west of the country. It is the star grape of the Bierzo DO in Castilla y Léon, where is accounts for almost two-thirds of the vineyards. In neighbouring Galicia, its main DOs are Valdeorras and Ribeira Sacra. It is also grown in the Dão region of Portugal, where it is known as Jaen.
It was once thought to be an ancient clone of Cabernet Franc, due to some shared aromas and characteristics, but DNA profiling has laid that theory to rest.
It’s Mencia’s moment.
Until recently, Mencía fell into the category of neglected old world indigenous grapes. It was thought to produce only light, simple and rustic table wine and was relegated to local consumption. Post-phylloxera plantings in fertile plains yielding high volumes of diluted wine were to blame. But all of that changed in the 1990s as a new generation of noted winemakers began reclaiming abandoned old vine vineyards on steep terraced hillsides. Through better vineyard management and astute winemaking, they began producing more complex and concentrated, age-worthy wines, showcasing Mencía’s true potential. Since then, the grape has been increasing in quality and popularity, emerging as an Iberian Peninsula star.
Vineyards along the Camino de Santiago in Bierzo.
So, what does it taste like?
Mencía can be a bit of a chameleon on the style spectrum, reflecting its terroir and vintage in the glass. In addition to its comparisons to Cabernet Franc, it has been likened to light, fruity Gamay, earthy Pinot Noir, and even spicy, fruity Syrah or Grenache in warmer years.
Tapas, because when in Spain….
Wines are medium to deep-coloured ruby, often with tinges of violet. On the nose it is fragrant and aromatic, with fresh, precise fruit ranging from strawberry and raspberry in the lighter, juicier styles to darker cherry, blackberry and plum in the more concentrated examples, floral notes, peppery undertones, dried herbs and graphite.
On the palate expect bright and lively acidity, supple and elegant tannins, and a medium body. Fruit and herbal flavours are often contrasted with a savoury soy character and a stony, graphite minerality finish—the latter most notably from the old vines grown on the schist-rich terraces of the Bierzo DO.
New oak is sometimes used, but many of the more complex, longer-aging wines are aged in old barrels or other neutral vessels to preserve the freshness and fruit. It is generally early drinking, but the more concentrated, powerful styles can age up to 10 years. Like Cabernet Franc, it is a great all-around food wine and makes nice with both summer and winter fare. Another reason to add it to your repertoire? It offers great value with bottles to be found in the $15-$25 range. Like we said—it’s hard to beat.